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Thanks, Torino!

I had a great time in Torino. Thanks to the folks who put this whole deal together, and especially the volunteers, who came from all over the globe and were always willing to point me in the right direction.

Thanks also to those who've commented here. A big grazie to Stefano and Luca for all their help in pointing me to the best places to eat and play in Torino. I have one more day to stuff myself full of Piemontese cooking.

And if you're still in the Olympic mood, why not head off to the USOC Olympic training center in Colorado, or other Olympics training centers in the US?

And...thanks for reading.

Tuesday February 28, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Closing Ceremony Fireworks

fireworks picture olympics blogIt's over, and the Olympics ended in spectacular fashion last night with a fireworks display that set the skies on fire for a considerable period.

I've put together a little gallery of the pyrotechnics from the Closing Ceremony. These were taken from the Media Village just across the street from the Olympic Stadium.

It was awesome, not to mention loud. Check out the Olympics Fireworks Pictures.
Monday February 27, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Homebodies

Why hasn't the US lived up to its pre-Olympic hype? Sure, you're gonna answer, "drinking, carousing, Dick Button, arrogance, Dick Button, lack of passion, Dick Button's vest, athletes refusing to mouth the national anthem, and probably Dick Button, if not Costas."

But, let's face it, USians are homebodies.

According to CBS Sportsline's medal tallies, since the Winter Games began in 1924, American athletes have won 14.4 percent of the medals when competing stateside. When the Olympics are in another country, Americans have won a piddling 7.8 percent. ~ Felix Gillette writing in Slate.

Not to mention the fact that our ownage of passports is pretty dismal.

Mr. Gillette outlines other reasons for this disparity in medal counts, all valid, but I'm going to focus on the homebody thing. No, wait, I'm going to go beyond it.

Why is it when I go to a good restaurant, there are few (or no) US journalists or athletes there? Yet, everybody complains of the food they're served in their villages.

We don't even get out of our hotels much, it seems. And we like to complain.

What is behind our driving need to judge the character of athletes armed only with a few paragraphs that a writer or two has written about them? How can folks come to hate people they've never actually met? Why are there so many comments on this blog about how horrible a particular US athlete is for not bucking up and doing his God-given duty of fulfilling the expectations of a nation? Is it that easy to be the best in the world?

We're part of a global village, a microcosm of which exists as the athlete's village. How come half the US "stars" you read about brought their own motorhomes? Bode says he's more comfortable there, and that helps his "performance." Good theory. We know now that the hypothesis is not confirmed by the data.

We need to get out more. The world is a wonderful, crazy, topsy-turvy place full of ideas, hopes, failures, successes, passions and unfulfilled dreams. Explore it, if you dare.

Sunday February 26, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Ohno Back on Track

apolo ohno picture blogThe Palavela was rocking as Apolo Ohno confounded everyone, including many of his critics, by jumping into the lead before the first turn of the Men's 500 Meter Short Track race last night and never relinquishing it to take the gold.

Not bad for a guy who almost didn't make it to the final, having to depend on Li Jiajun's disqualification for a spot. [race report]

Korean skater Hyun-Soo Ahn met him at center ice to offer congratulations. Ahn took the Bronze.

Later, Ohno helped the US got a bronze in the 5000 meter relay, an event dominated by the Koreans and Canadians, who duked it out for the gold while Ohno passed the Italian skater on the last turn for the bronze.

The event at the Palavela was more popular than even the figure skating, meaning more expensive ticket prices. Loud and crazy fans got their money's worth.

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Apolo Ohno Picture 1 | Ohno Picture 2
Sunday February 26, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Olympics Closing Ceremony - Carnevale!

Carnival will come to the Olympic Stadium tomorrow--meaning lots of Fellini (including original costumes from the film "I Clowns"), pyrotechnics by Christophe Berthonneau, who last was seen setting the Eiffel tower on fire in a hot open air theater performance in Paris, and featuring 2000 costumes by Giovanna Buzzi, who has certainly been busy on the sewing machine.

The Carnevale de Viareggio Foundation was called in to lend a hand. Viareggio, on the Tuscan coast, hosts 800,000 for their carnevale, visitors who come to see huge paper mache floats 20 meters high and 14 meters long paraded down the Viali a Mare, the street along the beach.

Should be fun. Tickets start at 200 Euros. Don't be late.

Saturday February 25, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

US Streaks to an Olympic Bronze in Curling

Curling is a mezmerizing game. You think, "This is nuts, how can curling be an Olympic sport?"

A half hour later you haven't answered the question, but your eyes are still glued to the television where grown men or women are discussing where the next big stone should go.

There is no better environment for an overweight bozo with a rubber chicken flopping over his genitals to interrupt the exciting progress of the "end." Yes, a streaker.

I'm sorry I missed it. Well, sorta. I'm thinking that the Italians were worried about the games being disrupted by some huge, international organization with a bone to pick; maybe the bone is globalization, disease, fur coats (lots of 'em in Torino) or some such. But no, it's a nekid guy with a tattoo who's tackled by the ref.

Curling has indeed come of age.

Read more and see a picture: Is it cold in here, or is it just me?

Read more about the match: U.S. men win curling bronze medal

Saturday February 25, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Olympic Food - How Can a Great Cuisine turn out so Bad?

Lots of rumblings about the food served to athletes here in Torino. Many dislike eating in the athletes village. I feel their pain.

How can a city and region have such a celebrated cuisine that somehow manages to fall flat when served to thousands of athletes?

food media village blog pictureThe answer is simple. Italian cuisine is based on using fresh, local ingredients given minimal manipulation in the kitchen. It's grandma's cooking. Lots of care must be taken with timing; pasta must be cooked for exactly the right time or it will be hard to the teeth or mushy and unpalatable.

Take scallopine. You smash a thin cut of veal until it's as thin as you can make it, then season it and slap it in a very hot pan with a little oil or butter. You give it maybe thirty seconds a side, then deglaze the pan with vino bianco or Marsala. Basta! It's done--a rich, succulent two minute meal. And it's as good as the ingredients you've used to make it.

So why can't the preparation of these simple dishes be scaled to the extent necessary to feed 2500 athletes? One answer (you can see it in the picture): the dreaded steam table.

Each evening in the media village, the most amazing smells trickle up from the kitchen to my room. But the food on that steam table one floor below me doesn't come close to replicating the sensory experience I get while showering before dinner. When Italian food sits on a barely warm puddle of water, it disintegrates into a sort of simple, morbid mush. Some say it even becomes dangerous; they never seem get the steam going on the table. In any case, I pass on it, even though the alternatives are more expensive.

Some foods aren't made so much worse by steam tables. Some of the best ribs I've ever eaten have sat on a steam table for a while. But the Italian foods that might fit the steam table experience, say a nice bolito misto with a few veal tongues floating around in the broth, would probably be enough to turn off those athletes with narrow culinary experiences.

It's a shame athletes aren't getting the true Italian experience. On the other hand, I'm glad the Italians haven't entirely embraced the idea of the dreaded steam table and already cut scallopine marinating in their own bacteria within tightly wrapped supermarket Styrofoam trays. I love it when I order Saltimbocca and hear the whap-whap of the veal being smashed in the kitchen while I'm digging into a plate of agnolotti del plin. Fresh and simple; food jumping to the beat of a different drummer.

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Around the Olympic Table:  Mancuso's gold recipe - late TV, junk food | Slowing down in tasty Turin | Athletes on food at village: It bites

Need Restaurant Recommendations in Turin? Italy for Visitors guide Martha Bakerjian is keeping track of all the recommendations that we're getting from the locals: Extraordinary Restaurants in Turin, Italy
Saturday February 25, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

Olympics and the Spirit of Giving

Joey Cheek donated both his gold and silver medal bonuses, a total of $40,000 to Right to Play, an athlete-driven humanitarian organization with a presence here in Torino at the athlete's village. Right to Play uses sport and play to improve the lives of children in the world's most disadvantaged areas.

Cheek's donations are targeted to go to the Sudan in Africa.

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Mathieu Razanakolona blog pictureOlympic Skier Mathieu Razanakolona's quest has been compared to that of the Jamaican bobsled team, but Mathieu insists he comes to Torino well prepared in his sport. Still, his primary goal is to focus the spotlight on Madagascar, a country with magnificent natural resouces that also happens to be one of the poorest countries in the world--70 per cent of its population lives below the poverty lever. 

Mathieu and his brother Philippe run rAaAlpin.org, a non-profit developed to aide development in Madagascar. Take a look at the site. Maybe buy a tee shirt. You've always wanted one from a country other people can't find on a map, haven't you?

C'mon, you know Madagascar! It's the country that produces a majority of the world's real Vanilla--you know, that smell that cookie companies spray in the air so that you'll feel compelled to buy the little baked dough-droppings guaranteed to rot your teeth.

Mathieu Razanakolona will compete Saturday in the Slalom. He's probably not going to knock the leaders off the board, but he's not chopped liver when it comes to skiing either; in 2004 he finished second in the slalom in the Quebec junior championship, and in 2005 he finished with enough points in slalom and giant slalom in FIS races to qualify for the Olympics.

What do people here say when they learn he's from Madagascar? "Madagascar! I want pins!"

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Find out more about African Athletes at the Winter Olympics.

Picture of Skier Mathieu Razanakolona © 2006 by James Martin | Olympics Pictures

Friday February 24, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

A Medal for the Japanese

I was glad to see Shizuka Arakawa [Skating Summary] win the Figure Skating gold medal last night. Japan needed one.

See, several days ago a Japanese television crew focused their camera on me for some inexplicable reason. The interviewer immediately tried to establish if medals were important to me and my country.

Me? Medals, nah. My countrymen, however, seem inclined to treat the horde of medals the USA was supposed to accumulate as already-won-and-stored-in-the-vault sacred treasures, signs that a power greater than all of us had declared and rewarded our inherent superiority, at least as far as doing loops on a chunk of bent board gliding over the icy surfaces of something called a "half-pipe" is concerned.

"So, how many medals do you think Japan has won?"

Ok, I was stumped. I thought maybe three, but I said "seven" just to make her and her audience feel good.

Giddy laughter ensued, mouths covered discreetly.

"None," the interviewer informed me, "what do you think of that?"

I was speechless. What do you say? Can you make a joke? "Japan should practice more if it wants to be up there with the big boys like the USA and Germany..."

I'm glad Shizuka grabbed the gold. No more embarasing questions. Now Japan is as great a power in Winter Olympics as Britain.

Kidding aside, Sasha Cohen, after missing her first two jumps and putting on a great recovery to finish her program, said of winning the silver, "For me it is just a medal, the experience is the process and I'm enjoying it."

She hit the nail on the head: It's the process, the Olympic spectacle as a whole that is compelling. It's not just an athletic competition or Cohen's four minutes on the ice; it is the story of our potential, our passion, our infinite capacity to amaze and disappoint.

Friday February 24, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

It doesn't just stop after the Closing Ceremony

One of the things about festivals in Italy, they seem to never end. When I lived in Sedilo, Sardinia, I was fortunate to be able to attend L'ardia di San Costantino, a sacred horse race with inherent dangers that make the Palio di Siena look like a kid's game. What was really cool, though, was that each weekend after there was a different festival along the same lines; a race held for kids on donkeys, a foot race the whole town could participate in, and a horse olympics, where groups of men road horses at full gallup while doing stunts (think of a human pyramid formed on top of two galloping horses).

In some ways the Olympics are structured the same way. After the closing ceremony on Sunday, the place will get spiffed up for the Paralympic Games in early March.

Then, Stefano reminds us that there is the 37th Chess Olympiad slated for May and June. Maybe that one is more my speed.

But wait, there's even more! Stefano reminds us that "this year will be 300 years from the Siege of Torino...Great celebrations are exected for the anniversary on the 7th of September."

Italy is a great place for festivals. I hope to catch carnevale in Ivrea and avoid getting pelted with oranges by wearing a red hat.

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It does end for some of the journalist and television crews, however. The tide of conversation has turned toward the stuff people will take home. Pretty much half the chatter in the press room concerns shopping in some form or other--chocolate and shoes being the most frequently mentioned.

Friday February 24, 2006 | permalink | comments ()

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